How to frame & hang art prints without damage

You have chosen the perfect print. Now you need to get it on the wall without damaging the print, the frame, or the plaster. This guide covers everything from choosing the right frame to hanging it straight on any wall type.

Choosing a frame

A frame does three things: it protects the print, it defines the boundary between the artwork and the wall, and it adds (or subtracts) from the visual impact of the piece. The best frames do all three without drawing attention to themselves.

Frame materials

• Wood — The most versatile option. Natural wood frames (oak, pine, walnut) add warmth. Painted wood frames (white, black) add crispness. Wood is lightweight, durable, and available in every style from ornate to minimal.
• Metal — Aluminium frames are thin, modern, and extremely durable. They suit minimalist and contemporary interiors. The trade-off is that they can feel cold in a nursery or cosy living room.
• MDF and composite — Budget-friendly and available in a wide range of finishes. Quality varies significantly. Good composite frames are indistinguishable from wood; cheap ones look and feel like cheap ones.

Frame profiles

The profile is the cross-section of the frame — how wide and deep it is:

• Thin profiles (10-15mm) — Modern, minimal, let the artwork dominate. Best for gallery walls where you want the prints to feel connected rather than individually boxed.
• Medium profiles (20-30mm) — The all-rounder. Substantial enough to frame the artwork properly, slim enough to avoid looking heavy.
• Thick profiles (40mm+) — Statement frames that work best on single large prints. Can overwhelm smaller prints or make a gallery wall feel cluttered.

Glass or acrylic?

Real glass is heavier, more scratch-resistant, and gives a slightly clearer view of the print. Acrylic (Perspex) is lighter, shatter-proof, and safer in children's rooms. For nurseries and kids' bedrooms, acrylic is the practical choice. For living rooms and hallways where safety is less of a concern, glass gives a marginally better visual result.

If the print is in a position where it will catch direct sunlight, consider UV-protective glass or acrylic. The additional cost is modest and it significantly extends the life of the print's colours.

Mounting the print

How the print sits inside the frame matters more than most people realise:

• Direct mount — The print sits directly behind the glass with no border. This maximises the visual size of the artwork and creates a clean, modern look.
• Window mount (mat) — A border of card surrounds the print inside the frame, creating a visual margin between the artwork and the frame edge. This adds breathing room and can make a smaller print feel larger. Use acid-free mount board to prevent yellowing.

For typographic prints, a direct mount usually works best. The designs are already carefully composed with their own margins, and adding a window mount can create too much white space.

Hanging hardware

The right hardware depends on the wall type and the weight of the framed print:

Plasterboard

Most interior walls in modern UK homes are plasterboard on timber or metal studs. Standard nails and screws will pull out of plasterboard under modest weight.

• For prints up to 2kg (A4 and A3 in lightweight frames): Picture hooks with hardened steel pins. The angled pin spreads the load better than a straight nail.
• For prints up to 5kg (A2 in a standard frame): Toggle or spring anchors. These expand behind the plasterboard to grip a larger area.
• For prints over 5kg (A1 and A0 in heavy frames): Find a stud. Use a stud finder or tap the wall (studs sound solid, gaps sound hollow). A screw into a timber stud will hold virtually any domestic frame.

Solid walls (brick, stone, concrete)

Older properties and some modern builds have solid masonry walls. These are stronger but require drilling.

• Use wall plugs (Rawlplugs) with screws. Drill the hole slightly smaller than the plug diameter for a tight fit.
• A masonry drill bit is essential. Standard drill bits will not penetrate brick or concrete.
• For heavy frames, use two fixings spaced apart rather than one central fixing. This distributes the weight and prevents the frame from pivoting.

Damage-free options for renters

• Command strips — 3M Command strips hold up to 7kg per pair and peel off cleanly when you move out. They work on most smooth, painted surfaces. Follow the weight guidelines carefully.
• Picture hanging strips — Velcro-style strips that hold the frame flush to the wall. Good for lightweight frames (A4 and A3).
• Picture rails — Many older properties have existing picture rails. Use picture rail hooks and wire to hang frames at any height without touching the wall.
• Leaning — For large prints (A1, A0), leaning the frame against the wall on a shelf or mantelpiece creates a casual, gallery feel without any fixings at all.

Getting it straight

1. Mark the hanging point on the wall with a pencil.
2. Use a spirit level (or the level app on your phone) to check the mark is where you want it.
3. After hanging, place the spirit level on top of the frame to verify it is level.
4. If the frame tilts, most hanging hardware allows micro-adjustment. Slide the wire left or right on the hook.
5. For gallery walls, a laser level projects a line across the wall that you can align multiple frames to. They cost under £15 and save hours of frustration.

Common mistakes

• Using a nail when you need an anchor. A nail in plasterboard will hold for a while and then pull out, usually at 3am.
• Hanging too high. The centre of the artwork should be at eye level — roughly 145cm from the floor, or lower above furniture.
• Forgetting the wire slack. If you use D-rings and wire on the back of the frame, the wire will sag under the frame's weight. Measure from the taut wire to the top of the frame, not from the D-rings.
• Not checking for pipes and cables. Before drilling, use a cable and pipe detector. They cost under £20 and prevent expensive, dangerous mistakes.